Glass-lined vertical steam smoker evince

ABSTRACT

EVINCE, a glass lined vertical steam smoker bar-b-que grill that cooks on a tiered system. What is new with this outdoor grill is the concept, the glass lining, the vertical configuration &amp; design, and the tiered cooking system. It can be used as a conventional bar-b-que grill, a steam smoke bar-b-que grill, or a steam smoker for curing meat. The vertical configuration of the unit gives the user a lot more control over the cooking and smoking process. There are four grates with a combined cooking area of six and a half feet and steam pan that measures fourteen and half inches in diameter by three and a half inches deep. Four hooks for hanging meat at top of container. The interior walls are lined with a special type of glass which protects the container from corrosion. The steam pan access door serves as the secondary exhaust port as the smoke is re-circulated.

The invention is a glass-lined vertical steam smoker/bar-b-que grill. It is made by recycling the cylinders that are used in the manufacturing of hot water heaters. The cylinders are sixteen (16) inches in diameter by sixty (60) inches high.

The manufacturing process begin with sand wasting the exterior of the cylinder. After which the primary door is laid out; mark off seven (7) inches from the bottom of the cylinder, and from that mark, put another mark at forty two (42) inches. Using these two marks as reference points, lay out a rectangle forty two(42) inches by thirteen (13) inches. With a plasma cutter cut out the rectangle section. Lay out the steam pan charcoal access door one hundred and twenty degrees (120) counter clockwise from the center of the cut-out for the primary door. On center at one hundred and twenty (120) degrees five (5) inches from the bottom, lay out another rectangle eight and a half(8.5) inches high by four and a half (4.5) inches wide, and with the plasma cutter remove the laid out rectangle.

The bottom of the cylinder is concave so it must be removed and reversed. Lay out a line around the circumference of the cylinder one inch from the bottom. With the plasma cutter, cut the bottom from the cylinder. Using a grinder with a medium grit wheel, prep the cylinder removing any sharp edges and any remaining slag on the areas that have been cut. While the bottom is off, lay out a three inch circle dead center, and with the plasma cutter remove the laid out circle. Using a metal cut-off, save- cut a one and a half inch (1.5) section from a three inch (3) diameter pipe and on the convex side of the bottom. Position this one and a half (1.5) inch sleeve in the three (3) inch hole previously cut into the bottom, and with a Mig welder tack the sleeve in place. Replace and align the bottom back onto the cylinder with the convex side outward and tack weld around the circumference. Once it is tacked into position, run a solid bead around the entire seam and grind the bead using a medium grit grinding wheel.

The top of the cylinder is already convex, and it has a two inch (2) by three (3) inch diameter pipe protruding out of it. Cut a piece of three(3) inch diameter pipe eight (8) inches long, and align it onto the piece that protrude from the top of the cylinder and tack weld in place. Then run a solid bead around the joint. The opening for the primary door is trimmed with one (1) inch by eight (8) inch flat stock. With the metal cut-off, save-cut two pieces forty four (44) inches long and two pieces fourteen and five eighths (14⅝) inches long. The forty four (44) inch pieces are to be aligned evenly with the vertical edge of the opening and extending one inch above and below the opening; clamp and tack weld in place. The same procedure is done to the other side.

Take the fourteen and five eighth (14⅝) inch piece and place one end against the edge of the vertical piece even with the top of the piece and tack the end in place and bend the piece into position and clamp it where the end of this piece butt up against the edge of the vertical piece. Making sure the trim conforms to the radius of the cylinder. The same procedure is done to the bottom piece. When the four pieces are in place run a solid bead at the corners where the horizontal pieces butt against the vertical pieces and then run alternation stitch welds every five inches on the vertical pieces and every three inches on the horizontal pieces.

The forty two(42) inch by thirteen (13) inch piece which was cut from the cylinder will be used to make the primary door. To begin take two pieces of flat stock thirteen and a half (13.5) inches long by one inch by one quarter 1.25) inch and bend these two pieces so that the outside radius match the outside radius of the cylinder. These pieces will be welded to the interior of the primary door. Take one of the pieces and align it with the top horizontal edge of the door and center it. Once aligned, clamp it in place making sure that the door conform to the radius of the brace.

Weld a solid bead along the end of the brace and one inch alternating beads from top to bottom along the length of the base. The same procedure is done to the bottom brace. The trim for the primary door is made from flat stock forty one and a half (41.5) inches long by one (1) inch by an eighth (⅛) of an inch for the two vertical pieces. The two horizontal pieces measure fourteen and a half (14.5) inches by one (1) inch by an eighth (⅛). The vertical pieces are positioned a quarter of an inch below the top horizontal edge and overlapping the exterior of the door by a quarter of an inch clamp and tack weld in place. The same procedure is done to the other side. The fourteen and a half (14.5) inch pieces are positioned with the end even with the outside edge of the vertical piece and overlapping the top of the door by a quarter of an inch and clamp the one enrd in place the bend the piece to conform to the radius of the door and clamp the other side in position making sure the trim radius match the door's radius, after which the piece is tack welded in place. Then run a solid bead on the joints where the horizontal pieces and the vertical pieces meet.

Begin from one corner of the door and stitch weld one inch beads around the perimeter of the door alternating from the exterior to the interior. The beads should be no farther than five inches apart. Once all the trim is welded to the door grind the four seam welds only and debar and remove any sharp edges. The door is now ready for the male hinge pins to be installed. The hinge pins are made from three eighth inch solid round stock two and a half inches long. The round stock is bent seven eighths of an inch from end to ninety degrees place a mark on the right side of the door four inches form the top and mark off four inches form the bottom right hand side. The long end of the hinge pin is to be attached to the door where the end of the pin is even with the inside edge of the trim and centered on the four inch mark with the short end angled downward; clamp it and tack weld it in place.

The same procedure is done to the bottom hinge pin, and it to is angled downward to allow the door to be removable. The hinge pin couplings are now ready to be attached to the cylinder. Position the cylinder on the back side so that the primary door opening is facing upward. Position the door into the opening and making sure it is properly aligned. And with two web clamps one at the top and the other at the bottom clamp the door to the cylinder. The hinge pin coupling and slip it onto the top hinge pin; if the coupling do not make contact with the cylinder remove it and bend the hinge pin until the coupling contact the cylinder and with the coupling on the pin tack weld it in place. The same procedure is done to the bottom hinge pin and coupling. Now weld a bead down both sides of the couplings, across the top and bottom of the hinge pin and a one inch bead on the trim and the door in the area where the hinge pin is attached to the trim.

The handle catch is made from flat stock two (2) inches long by one inch (1) by an eighth (⅛) inch and it is bent ninety degrees three quarters of an inch from the end. The handle catch is located twenty inches from the bottom of the door and seven inches from the left side. Tack weld the handle catch in place with the tree quarter inch end being welded to the door and the long end angled upward. Then run a solid bead around the catch. Remove the web camps from the cylinder and remove the door. Clean the interior side of the trim on the door and clean the trim that is attached to the cylinder and cover the trim with electrical tape. On the interior side of the door's trim, seven eighths of an inch from end to ninety degrees place a mark on the right side of the door four inches form the top and mark off four inches form the bottom right hand side. The long end of the hinge pin is to be attached to the door where the end of the pin is even with the inside edge of the trim and centered on the four inch mark with the short end angled downward; clamp it and tack weld it in place.

The same procedure is done to the bottom hinge pin, and it to is angled downward to allow the door to be removable. The hinge pin couplings are now ready to be attached to the cylinder. Position the cylinder on the back side so that the primary door opening is facing upward. Position the door into the opening and making sure it is properly aligned. And with two web clamps one at the top and the other at the bottom clamp the door to the cylinder. The hinge pin coupling and slip it onto the top hinge pin; if the coupling do not make contact with the cylinder remove it and bend the hinge pin until the coupling contact the cylinder and with the coupling on the pin tack weld it in place. The same procedure is done to the bottom hinge pin and coupling. Now weld a bead down both sides of the couplings, across the top and bottom of the hinge pin and a one inch bead on the trim and the door in the area where the hinge pin is attached to the trim.

The handle catch is made from flat stock two (2) inches long by one inch (1) by an eighth (⅛) inch and it is bent ninety degrees three quarters of an inch from the end. The handle catch is located twenty inches from the bottom of the door and seven inches from the left side. Tack weld the handle catch in place with the tree quarter inch end being welded to the door and the long end angled upward. Then run a solid bead around the catch. Remove the web camps from the cylinder and remove the door. Clean the interior side of the trim on the door and clean the trim that is attached to the cylinder and cover the trim with electrical tape. On the interior side of the door's trim, run a quarter inch bead of food grade heat resistant silicon around the perimeter of the door replace the door, and close it until the silicon is cured. This will form the air tight gasket around the door. Once cured open the door and remove the tape.

The pressure locking handle is made from flat stock, ten (10) inches long by one (1) inch by three sixteenths ( 3/16). Lay out a mark at five (5) inches and from one edge mark off five sixteenths( 5/16) of an inch. Where those marks intersect, bore a quarter inch hole through the stock. Cut a piece of quarter inch solid round stock three eights (⅜) of an inch long and insert it into the previously bored hole making it flush on one side and protruding three sixteenths(3/16) on the other side. On the flush side weld the seam and grind flush. The side where the pin protrude out is front side. The edge that the pin is closest to is the left side of the clasp. The clasp hinge pins are made from quarter inch solid round stock three eighths (⅜) of an inch long. On the left side of the clasp parallel with the edge, the hinge pin are stood on end and tack welded in place. This procedure is done to both ends of the clasp on the same side.

The clasp handle is made from flat stock eleven(11) inches long by one inch (1) by an eighth inch. From one end of this piece, mark off three eights of an inch and bore a quarter inch hole centered on a half inch from the edge. Now from this same end, lay out a mark two and a half inches (2.5) and another mark at five and a half (5.5) inches. On the two and a half inch mark, bend the handle ten (10) degrees, and on the second mark bend that portion of the handle in the opposite direction ten degrees. The back side of the handle is the side which is angled away from you; where the second bend will make contact with the door. Place the handle onto the pin protruding from the clasp, and then place a quarter inch inside diameter washer on the pin against the handle. Clamp in place and weld the washer to the pin. Grind flush to the washer, and round off the corner of the handle to eliminate the sharp points and edges.

Refer back to the eight inch by three inch diameter pipe that was welded to the top of the cylinder which is the primary exhaust manifold. This manifold requires and exhaust control cap. The pin that the cap swivel on is solid round stock three eighths (⅜) of and inch long by three sixteenths ( 3/16) of an inch in diameter. The pin is welded on the back interior side of the pipe extending three sixteenths of an inch above the pipe. The cap is made from flat stock three and a quarter(3.25) inches in diameter by an eighth (⅛) inch thick. From the perimeter of the cap, bore a three sixteenths ( 3/16) of an inch hole on a quarter inch center. Debur the cap and place it on the pin extending form the exhaust manifold. Place a quarter inch inside diameter washer onto the pin on top of the cap, and weld the washer to the pin and grind flush to the washer.

The handle for the cap is made from flat stock one and a half (1.½) inches long by one quarter inch by an eighth of an inch (¼×⅛), and it is bent ninety degrees (90) a half (½) inch from end. It is welded to the cap angled downward with the half inch end welded to the cap in-line with the pin three quarters of an inch from the perimeter of the cap. Debur the handle and slightly round off the corners.

The clean-out air intake trap consist of the trap cap and the trap cap carriage. The trap cap is made from three and a quarter (3¼) inch diameter flat stock that is an eighth (⅛) of an inch thick. The handle is eleven inches by a quarter inch by an eighth (11″×¼″×⅛″) of an inch. The handle is welded to the cap end to edge and centered. The trap cap carriage is made from flat stock, four pieces are six inches long by a quarter inch by an eighth (6″×¼″×⅛″) of an inch. These four pieces are the rail and guides. There are three pieces that are two and three quarter inches by a quarter inch by an eighth ( 23/4″×¼″×⅛″) of an inch. They are join to the rail and guides. There is also the front brace and the back brace. Both of these pieces are three and a quarter inches by a quarter inch by an eighth (3¼″×¼″×⅛″) of an inch. And there are four pieces which are the hanging brackets, they are two inches long by a quarter inch by an eighth (2″×¼″×⅛″) of an inch.

To begin, take two of the six (6) inch pieces and lay them parallel, two and tree quarter inches apart. Place one of the two and three quarter inch pieces at the end and between the six inch pieces. Square one side and clamp in place and weld the seam. Leave that section clamped in place and square the other six inch piece and camp it in place and weld the seam. Place the other two and three quarter inch piece at the opposite end between the two six inch pieces. Square it and clamp it in place and weld both seams. Take the last two and three quarter inch piece and place it between the other two on three inch center and weld in place. Unclasp the assembly and grind the welds. Re-clamp the assembly and take one of the other six inch pieces and stand it on edge so that the surface of this piece is square against the edge of the assembly and tack this piece in place on the ends only.

Take one of the three and a quarter inch pieces and stand it on edge and even with the vertical surface of the previously positioned six inch piece, and weld at the inside vertical corner. Tack the inside seam on the opposite side. Take the last six inch piece stand it on edge with the vertical surface against the edge of the assembly and tack it in place. The end that is boxed in is the back of the trap cap carriage. Now take the last three and a quarter inch piece and place it at the front of the assembly between the vertical surfaces of the two six inch pieces flush with the top edge of the six inch pieces and weld in place.

The carriage hanging brackets which are the four two inch pieces are welded to the outside vertical surface of the six inch pieces. Take one piece stand it on end at the back corner of the carriage square it and clamp it in place and tack weld. The same procedure is done to the other corner. Mark off four inches from the back corner and position one of the other two inch pieces on the four inch mark square it and clamp and tack weld in place. The same procedure is done to the other side. Weld the inside back corners and along the edge of the hanging brackets and the surface of the guides. Set this component to the side.

To begin fabricating the stand there are thirteen pieces of three quarter inch square tubing. Two pieces are thirty two inches by three quarters, two pieces are thirty and a half inches, five pieces are twenty and a half inches, tow pieces are thirteen and an eighth of and inch and, two pieces are eleven and three quarters of an inch. Begin assembly by laying out the two thirty two inch pieces parallel to each other twenty and a half inches apart. Take two of the twenty and a half inch pieces and place one on each end between the two thirty two inch pieces. At one end square the twenty and a half inch piece to the thirty two inch piece and clamp and tack weld in place. On the opposite side, square the thirty two inch piece to the twenty and a half inch piece and clamp and tack weld in place. At the opposite end, square the other twenty and a half inch piece clamp and tack weld both sides. Check the assembly for squareness and weld the four inside corners and the top seams only.

Designate one end of the rectangle as the right end and, from that end mark off sixteen and a half inches from the inside of the twenty and a half inch piece. Take one of the other twenty and a half inch piece and place it to the left side of the mark square it and clamp in place. Tack weld this piece in place and then weld all four corners and the top seams and grind flush the top seam welds. Unclasp the assembly and turn it top side down and take one of the thirteen and an eighth inch piece and stand it on end on one of the left side corners square it and tack weld it in place. Once it is true weld it in place and, repeat this procedure to the opposite side with the other thirteen and an eighth inch piece. Take the two eleven and three quarter inch pieces and from the end, lay out a mark a half inch from end and bore a hole thirteen thirty seconds in diameter on three eighth inch center. This procedure is done to both pieces to accommodate the three eighth inch diameter Axel. At the right end, place the piece hole end up facing the front of the assembly. Square it and tack in place. Check for squareness and weld in place. Repeat this same procedure to the opposite side. From the bottom of the assembly, mark off seven inches on the legs. Take one of the remaining twenty and a half inch pieces and square it on the seven inch mark and tack weld both ends in place. Repeat this same procedure to the opposite end and also to the two thirty and a half inch pieces.

Now, the feet are ready to be attached. They are made from flat stock one and three quarters of and inch by one inch by and eighth of and inch. On the left end of the stand place the feet flush to the outside edge of the leg and centered and weld the seam all the way around. The cylinder is attached to the base with three 1-brackets. The 1-brackets are made from one and a half inch by one and a half inch angle iron. Using the metal cut-off saw cut three pieces of angle iron one inch wide. Now go back to the cylinder and lay out a mark four inches from the bottom of the cylinder around the circumference. Intersect that mark with another mark on the back of the cylinder one hundred and eighty degrees from the center of the primary doors.

Now from that one hundred and eighty degree mark place another mark ninety degrees to the left of it and ninety degrees to the right of it. Place one of the 1-brackets on center at the one hundred and eighth degree mark with the section that is to be welded to the cylinder angled down so that the other end is perpendicular to the cylinder and on the four inch mark; tack and weld in place. Following this same procedure weld the other two 1-brackets to the cylinder on center of the other two previously laid out marks.

Once the brackets are welded in place sit the cylinder in the strand and line up the primary doors opening with the front of the stand. Now raise the cylinder to bring the 1-brackets against the bottom of the tubing and clamp each 1-bracket to the bottom of the square tubing and weld each bracket in place. Cut a piece of expanded metal thirty and a half inches by twenty and a half inches and in one of the corners lay out a circle sixteen and a quarter inches in diameter. Position the circle where the circumference inter-sect the back and the right side edge of the rectangle so that the back right corner of the expanded metal will be cut away. Take the expanded metal and slip it down around the cylinder and position it in the proper fit on the base. Tack weld the front corners and then the back corners and along the perimeter. On the left side of the stand between the front and back corner, lay out a mark fifteen and a half inches from the back corner. This mark is where the front shelf support will sit.

The shelves and supports are made from three quarters of an inch square tubing there are eight pieces; two pieces are twenty nine and an quarter inch, two pieces are fourteen and a quarter inch, tow pieces are fifteen and a half inches and two pieces are sixteen and a half inches. Take one of the twenty nine and a quarter inch pieces and forward of the fifteen and a half inch mark stand the piece on end on the mark. Square it and tack weld in place. The other twenty nine and a quarter inch piece is positioned three quarters of an inch from the corner square it and tack weld in place. Place a mark on the shelf support fourteen and a quarter inches from the top of the stand. Take one of the fourteen and a quarter inch pieces and place the bottom side on the mark; square it and tack weld both sides in place.

Now take one of the sixteen and a half inch pieces and one of the fifteen and a half inch pieces and on one end cut an eight inch radius without altering the total length of either piece. The sixteen and a half inch piece sit on top and flush with the back shelf support. Square it and tack weld in place. The end with the radius cut on it should be flush against the cylinder, tack this end to the cylinder. Repeat the process to the front piece. Now take the fifteen and three quarter inch piece and the fourteen and three quarter inch piece and on one of the ends cut an eight inch radius without altering the total length of the pieces. Place the fifteen and three quarter inch piece on the fourteen and a quarter inch mark that was placed on the twenty nine and a quarter inch shelf support. Square this back piece and tack in place and tack to the cylinder. The fourteen and three quarters inch piece is the front pieces. Square it to the fourteen and a quarter inch mark and track weld in place. Take the last fourteen and a quarter inch piece and place it in position at the top and flush with the front and back horizontal pieces and tack weld in place.

Now go back and weld the joints all the way around. Cut two pieces of expanded metal fourteen and a quarter inches wide by fifteen inches long. Mark off fourteen and a quarter inches on the front side and from that mark lay out an eight inch radius to the fifteen inch length of the back side. With the plasma cutter remove the semi circle and position the piece between the shelf support and against the cylinder and tack weld in place. The same procedure is repeated to the lower shelf Then go back and weld the entire perimeter of the expanded metal in place. The opening for the steam pan access door is framed with quarter inch by eighth inch flat stock. Two pieces are nine inches long and two pieces are four and a half inches long. Place the nine piece flush to the vertical edge of the opening a quarter inch above and below the horizontal cuts of the opening. Clamp in place and tack weld. This same procedure is repeated on the opposite side. Take one of the four and a half inch pieces and place one end against the edge of the vertical pieces and flush with the horizontal edge of the opening and clamp that end in place, now bend the piece to conform to the radius of the cylinder and clamp the other end in place and tack weld. This procedure is repeated to the other four and a half inch piece then weld the seams at the corners and stitch weld three quarter inch beads every two inches around the perimeter of the opening.

The steam pan access door is made from flat stock one eighth of an inch thick by five inches wide by nine inches long. The piece is bent along the length to an eight inch radius. The door have no trim applied. The handle for the door is made from flat stock one inch long by a quarter inch wide by an eighth inch thick and bent to ninety degrees on a half inch. This piece is then welded to the door angled downward to the right side fo the door two inches from the top and one inch form the paralleled edge of the door. The hinge pins are made from solid round stock one inch long by three sixteenths inches in diameter. The round stock is bent to ninety degrees one quarter of an inch from end. The door is hinged on the left side, take one of the hinge pins position it with the long end on the door one inch from the top and overlapping the exterior of the door by three eighths of an inch and tack weld in place angled downward. Repeat the same procedure to the bottom pin except it is to be angled upward.

After the hinge pins are welded in place position the door over the opening even with the trim and with the web clamp, clamp it in place. The hinge pin couplings are made from flat stock three eights of an inch long by five sixteenths wide bore a three sixteenths inch hole centered in both pieces. Take one of the coupling s and slip it onto the top hinge pin with the three eighth inch section being attached to the cylinder once properly positioned weld it in place. The same procedure is done to the bottom coupling.

Once completed, with a die grinder debar and round off the corners of the couplings and handle. The steam pan and grate support pins are made from solid round stock a quarter inch in diameter by three quarters of an inch long, there are a total of fifteen pins. Five are to be welded in a vertical row at one hundred and eighty degrees from the center of the primary doors opening. The first one is to be welded nine inches from the bottom and the other four are welded on center every eight inches above the nine inch one. The other ten are for the front and, they are to be welded one and a half inches from the vertical edge of the primary doors opening on both sides. As with the back pins they are to be welded one at nine inches from the bottom and on center every eight inches.

Once completed, EVINCE will have approximately one hundred and eighty square inches of cooking surface on the four grates combined. It have a primary door that features a pressure locking handle. It have a steam pan charcoal access door located to the rear and bottom of the cylinder. At the very bottom of the cylinder there is a clean out air intake trap. At the very top of the cylinder there is an exhaust manifold with an exhaust control cap. The cylinder is lines with a special type of glass material that protects the container from the inevitable corrosion that occurs when metal is exposed to prolong periods of heat and moisture.

When this condition begin to take place in a cooking medium where food is exposed directly to the resulting effects of the deterioration of metal there is a potential health risk involved. The lining also increase the longevity of the unit. At the top interior there are four t-hooks for suspending larger section of meat and or cheese. The steam pan is the source of steam and it can be used with a combination of liquids, spices, herbs, vegetables, and fruits. When filled with liquids it also serves as a fire break by preventing the direct heat cooking of the meat.

The steam pan also serves as a grease; trap catching over ninety nine percent of the rendered fat preventing it from dripping down into the charcoals where it world cause grease fire flare ups. The clean out air intake trap facilitate the convenient and easy removal of ash and or charcoals in the event of a to hot a fire. The clean out air intake trap controls the temperature o the fire by controlling the amount of air intake. The handle to open and close the clean out air intake trap cap is conveniently located directly in front of the stand. The steam pan charcoal access door is to be used to replenish the steam pan, charcoals, and wood chips. It is also used as the secondary exhaust manifold. When the primary exhaust control cap is completely shut off the smoke is forced to re-circulate back down into the base of the smoker to exit from the steam pan access door. This method enhance the flavoring by retaining and re-circulating the smoke for longer periods of time. Which also maximize the use of the charcoals and or wood.

To use EVINCE first, open the primary manifold control cap, the primary door, the clean out air intake trap cap and the steam pan access door. To achieve the best results put approximately twenty briquettes in a pile in the center of the smoker. Put a liberal amount of charcoal lighter on the pile and allow to soak for five minutes. After five minutes light the charcoals and allow the pile to burn itself out. Then spread the charcoals evenly in the center of the smoker. Replace the steam pan and fill the pan three quarters full with the intended steaming liquid but, do not over fill the pan. Close the exhaust manifold control cap and the clean out air intake trap cap half way.

Close the steam pan access door all the way. Put your meat into the smoker and close the primary door and from this point you should access the steam pan and charcoals through the access door. Now through the steam pan charcoal access door scatter a handful of pre-soaked wood chips on top of the charcoals and close the door. Periodically check the remaining charcoals and the contents of the steam pan and replenish as needed but, no more than ten briquettes at any one time. EVINCE was designed with the intended purpose of smoke curing meat for extended periods of time and the time period if the smoking process is determined by the user and that time may be as few as eight hours or as many as ninety six or more.

However, even though EVINCE was designed for extended periods of smoke curing meat it also excels as a barbeque steam smoker. Following the same procedures for smoking meat except add more charcoals and rotate the meat from bottom to top and as the meat cooks the juices from the upper levels flavor the meat below it and finally caught in the seasoning steam pan where the process begin again in the form of steam. But, EVINCE unlike a barbeque grill where you shouldn't put barbeque sauce on the meat until its abut ready to come off of the grill, with EVINCE the sauce can be put on the meat half way into the cooking process.

CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

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STATEMENT REGARDING FEDERRALLY SPONSORED RESEARCH OR DEVELOPMENT

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REFERENCE TO SEQUENCE LISTING, A TABLE, OR A COMPUTER PROGRAM LISTING COMPACT DISK APPENDIX

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BACKGROUND OF INVENTION

The invention, EVINCE, pertains to the Culinary Arts. EVINCE is a Glass-Lined Vertical Steam Smoker Bar-B-Que Grill. The glass lining helps insulate the grill but, more importantly it serves as protection against corrosion. When base metal is exposed to heat and moisture, it begins to rust, which is an inherent problem in your typical grill. When this condition occurs in a traditional steam smoker/grill, droplets of steam that are attached to the interior falls onto the meat and leaves microscopic traces or rust on the meat which poses a potential health risk. Also many of your traditional grills have at least one grease fire during cooking and the clean out process of the grill is not very convenient.

EVINCE is new, unique and original and it function differently from other grills on market. The interior walls of the container is lined with a special type of glass which protects the container from corrosion. The steam pan which also serves as a grease drip pan catching over 99% of rendered fat preventing it from dripping into the coals causing grease-fire flare-ups. The clean-out air intake trap facilitate the removal of ash and charcoals in the event of a too hot of a fire. The clean-out trap handle is conveniently located in front of the stand and you simply pull the handle and rake out the ashes or rinse out with the garden hose.

BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

EVINCE is a glass-Lined Vertical Steam Smoker Bar-B-Que Grill. This product is new, unique and original and it function like no other smoker or grill on the market. It can be used as conventional bar-b-que grill, a steam smoker bar-b-que grill, or a steam smoker for curing meat.

The vertical configuration of the unit gives the user a lot more control over the cooking and smoking process. There are four grates with a combined cooking area of six and a half feet and steam pan that measures fourteen and half inches in diameter by three and half inches deep.

The tiered cooking system is unique where the meat on the lowest tier begin cooking first; the meat on the upper tiers re cooking but a slower rate and primarily by smoke and steam and as the meat is rotated from bottom to top there is a cooking period and steam and smoke period. As the juice and seasonings drip from the upper tiers down through the successive tiers, the meat continues to season itself The juice is not lost to the coals. The steam pan catches the juice and seasonings where it is transformed into steam, and the process of seasoning by infusion of steam begins. Seafood and vegetables can also be cooked on EVINCE. Cover the steam pan with a grate and place crab, oysters, shrimp, fish, or lobster on the grate to steam smoke. Vegetables can be cooked in this same manner. Evince can be used for extended periods of smoke curing meat from a few hours to 96 or more hours.

The glass lining provides protection against rust. The glass lining also eliminates any health risk that may occur when food is exposed to microscopic rust particles. EVINCE is a unit designed to bring together two opposing elements working in unison to achieve a flavor and tenderness in meat that's unmatched in a typical grill. The two elements become four elements: fire and water, smoke and steam.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE SEVERAL VIEWS OF THE DRAWINGS Glass-Lined Steam Smoker Bar-B-Que Grill, EVINCE

FIG. 1 Steam Smoker/Bar-B-Que Grill (3-D View With Door Open)

FIG. 2 Front View with Exterior Components identified

FIG. 3 Interior with Door Removed & Cleanout Trap

FIG. 4 Exterior & Interior View of Door

FIG. 5 Front View of Door (Order of Assembly)

FIG. 5-1 Interior Door View

FIG. 5-2 Rat Stock

FIG. 6 Cleanout Trap/Closed Position

FIG. 7 Removable Grates

FIG. 7-1 Grate Frame

FIG. 7-2 Seasoning & Steam Pan

FIG. 8-1 Hinge Pins

FIG. 8-2 Handle Clasp

FIG. 8-3 Handle Catch

FIG. 8-4 Handle

FIG. 8-5 Handle Retainer

FIG. 9 Stand

FIG. 9-1 Handle

FIG. 9-2 Utensil Rack

FIG. 9-3 Towel

FIG. 9-4 Brace for Trap Handle

FIG. 9-5 Hole Axel

FIG. 9-6 Feet

FIG. 9-7 Wheel

FIG. 10 3-D View of Stand

FIG. 11 Top View of Base with Cutout for Smoker

FIG. 12 Top View of Expanded Metal for Shelves and Stand

FIG. 13 Top View of Clean Out Trap and Trap Door Carriage

FIG. 13-1 Carriage Hanging Bracket

FIG. 14 View of Back Fuel & Access Door

FIG. 15-1 L-Bracket

FIG. 15-2 Utensil Bracket w/Hook

FIG. 15-3 End Cap

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The invention is a glass-lined vertical steam smoker/bar-b-que grill. It is made by recycling the cylinders that are used in the manufacturing of hot water heaters. The cylinders are sixteen (16) inches in diameter by sixty (60) inches high.

The manufacturing process begin with sand wasting the exterior of the cylinder. After which the primary door is laid out; mark off seven (7) inches from the bottom of the cylinder, and from that mark, put another mark at forty two (42) inches. Using these two marks as reference points, lay out a rectangle forty two(42) inches by thirteen (13) inches. With a plasma cutter cut out the rectangle section. Lay out the steam pan charcoal access door one hundred and twenty degrees (120) counter clockwise from the center of the cut-out for the primary door. On center at one hundred and twenty (120) degrees five (5) inches from the bottom, lay out another rectangle eight and a half (8.5) inches high by four and a half (4.5) inches wide, and with the plasma cutter remove the laid out rectangle. The bottom of the cylinder is concave so it must be removed and reversed. Lay out a line around the circumference of the cylinder one inch from the bottom. With the plasma cutter, cut the bottom from the cylinder. Using a grinder with a medium grit wheel, prep the cylinder removing any sharp edges and any remaining slag on the areas that have been cut. While the bottom is off, lay out a three inch circle dead center, and with the plasma cutter remove the laid out circle. Using a metal cut-off, save- cut a one and a half inch (1.5) section from a three inch (3) diameter pipe and on the convex side of the bottom. Position this one and a half (1.5) inch sleeve in the three (3) inch hole previously cut into the bottom, and with a Mig welder tack the sleeve in place. Replace and align the bottom back onto the cylinder with the convex side outward and tack weld around the circumference. Once it is tacked into position, run a solid bead around the entire seam and grind the bead using a medium grit grinding wheel.

The top of the cylinder is already convex, and it has a two inch (2) by three (3) inch diameter pipe protruding out of it. Cut a piece of three(3) inch diameter pipe eight (8) inches long, and align it onto the piece that protrude from the top of the cylinder and tack weld in place. Then run a solid bead around the joint. The opening for the primary door is trimmed with one (1) inch by eight (8) inch flat stock. With the metal cut-off, save-cut two pieces forty four (44) inches long and two pieces fourteen and five eighths (14⅝) inches long. The forty four (44) inch pieces are to be aligned evenly with the vertical edge of the opening and extending one inch above and below the opening; clamp and tack weld in place. The same procedure is done to the other side.

Take the fourteen and five eighth (14⅝) inch piece and place one end against the edge of the vertical piece even with the top of the piece and tack the end in place and bend the piece into position and clamp it where the end of this piece butt up against the edge of the vertical piece. Making sure the trim conforms to the radius of the cylinder. The same procedure is done to the bottom piece. When the four pieces are in place run a solid bead at the corners where the horizontal pieces butt against the vertical pieces and then run alternation stitch welds every five inches on the vertical pieces and every three inches on the horizontal pieces.

The forty two(42) inch by thirteen (13) inch piece which was cut from the cylinder will be used to make the primary door. To begin take two pieces of flat stock thirteen and a half(13.5) inches long by one inch by one quarter1.25) inch and bend these two pieces so that the outside radius match the outside radius of the cylinder. These pieces will be welded to the interior of the primary door. Take one of the pieces and align it with the top horizontal edge of the door and center it. Once aligned, clamp it in place making sure that the door conform to the radius of the brace.

Weld a solid bead along the end of the brace and one inch alternating beads from top to bottom along the length of the base. The same procedure is done to the bottom brace. The trim for the primary door is made from flat stock forty one and a half (41.5) inches long by one (1) inch by an eighth (⅛) of an inch for the two vertical pieces. The two horizontal pieces measure fourteen and a half (14.5) inches by one (1) inch by an eighth (⅛). The vertical pieces are positioned a quarter of an inch below the top horizontal edge and overlapping the exterior of the door by a quarter of an inch clamp and tack weld in place. The same procedure is done to the other side. The fourteen and a half (14.5) inch pieces are positioned with the end even with the outside edge of the vertical piece and overlapping the top of the door by a quarter of an inch and clamp the one end in place the bend the piece to conform to the radius of the door and clamp the other side in position making sure the trim radius match the door's radius, after which the piece is tack welded in place. Then run a solid bead on the joints where the horizontal pieces and the vertical pieces meet.

Begin from one corner of the door and stitch weld one inch beads around the perimeter of the door alternating from the exterior to the interior. The beads should be no farther than five inches apart. Once all the trim is welded to the door grind the four seam welds only and debar and remove any sharp edges. The door is now ready for the male hinge pins to be installed. The hinge pins are made from three eighth inch solid round stock two and a half inches long. The round stock is bent seven eighths of an inch from end to ninety degrees place a mark on the right side of the door four inches form the top and mark off four inches form the bottom right hand side. The long end of the hinge pin is to be attached to the door where the end of the pin is even with the inside edge of the trim and centered on the four inch mark with the short end angled downward; clamp it and tack weld it in place.

The same procedure is done to the bottom hinge pin, and it to is angled downward to allow the door to be removable. The hinge pin couplings are now ready to be attached to the cylinder. Position the cylinder on the back side so that the primary door opening is facing upward. Position the door into the opening and making sure it is properly aligned. And with two web clamps one at the top and the other at the bottom clamp the door to the cylinder. The hinge pin coupling and slip it onto the top hinge pin; if the coupling do not make contact with the cylinder remove it and bend the hinge pin until the coupling contact the cylinder and with the coupling on the pin tack weld it in place. The same procedure is done to the bottom hinge pin and coupling. Now weld a bead down both sides of the couplings, across the top and bottom of the hinge pin and a one inch bead on the trim and the door in the area where the hinge pin is attached to the trim.

The handle catch is made from flat stock two (2) inches long by one inch (1) by an eighth (⅛) inch and it is bent ninety degrees three quarters of an inch from the end. The handle catch is located twenty inches from the bottom of the door and seven inches from the left side. Tack weld the handle catch in place with the tree quarter inch end being welded to the door and the long end angled upward. Then run a solid bead around the catch. Remove the web camps from the cylinder and remove the door. Clean the interior side of the trim on the door and clean the trim that is attached to the cylinder and cover the trim with electrical tape. On the interior side of the door's trim, run a quarter inch bead of food grade heat resistant silicon around the perimeter of the door replace the door, and close it until the silicon is cured. This will form the air tight gasket around the door. Once cured open the door and remove the tape.

The pressure locking handle is made from flat stock, ten (10) inches long by one (1) inch by three sixteenths ( 3/16). Lay out a mark at five (5) inches and from one edge mark off five sixteenths( 5/16) of an inch. Where those marks intersect, bore a quarter inch hole through the stock. Cut a piece of quarter inch solid round stock three eights (⅜) of an inch long and insert it into the previously bored hole making it flush on one side and protruding three sixteenths( 3/16) on the other side. On the flush side weld the seam and grind flush. The side where the pin protrude out is front side. The edge that the pin is closest to is the left side of the clasp. The clasp hinge pins are made from quarter inch solid round stock three eighths (⅜) of an inch long. On the left side of the clasp parallel with the edge, the hinge pin are stood on end and tack welded in place. This procedure is done to both ends of the clasp on the same side.

The clasp handle is made from flat stock eleven(1) inches long by one inch (1) by an eighth inch. From one end of this piece, mark off three eights of an inch and bore a quarter inch hole centered on a half inch from the edge. Now from this same end, lay out a mark two and a half inches (2.5) and another mark at five and a half (5.5) inches. On the two and a half inch mark, bend the handle ten (10) degrees, and on the second mark bend that portion of the handle in the opposite direction ten degrees. The back side of the handle is the side which is angled away from you; where the second bend will make contact with the door. Place the handle onto the pin protruding from the clasp, and then place a quarter inch inside diameter washer on the pin against the handle. Clamp in place and weld the washer to the pin. Grind flush to the washer, and round off the corner of the handle to eliminate the sharp points and edges.

Refer back to the eight inch by three inch diameter pipe that was welded to the top of the cylinder which is the primary exhaust manifold. This manifold requires and exhaust control cap. The pin that the cap swivel on is solid round stock three eighths (⅜) of and inch long by three sixteenths ( 3/16) of an inch in diameter. The pin is welded on the back interior side of the pipe extending three sixteenths of an inch above the pipe. The cap is made from flat stock three and a quarter(3.25) inches in diameter by an eighth (⅛) inch thick. From the perimeter of the cap, bore a three sixteenths ( 3/16) of an inch hole on a quarter inch center. Debur the cap and place it on the pin extending form the exhaust manifold. Place a quarter inch inside diameter washer onto the pin on top of the cap, and weld the washer to the pin and grind flush to the washer.

The handle for the cap is made from flat stock one and a half (1.½) inches long by one quarter inch by an eighth of an inch (¼×⅛), and it is bent ninety degrees (90) a half (½) inch from end. It is welded to the cap angled downward with the half inch end welded to the cap in-line with the pin three quarters of an inch from the perimeter of the cap. Debur the handle and slightly round off the corners.

The clean-out air intake trap consist of the trap cap and the trap cap carriage. The trap cap is made from three and a quarter (3¼) inch diameter flat stock that is an eighth (⅛) of an inch thick. The handle is eleven inches by a quarter inch by an eighth (11″×¼″×⅛″) of an inch. The handle is welded to the cap end to edge and centered. The trap cap carriage is made from flat stock, four pieces are six inches long by a quarter inch by an eighth (6″×¼″×⅛″) of an inch. These four pieces are the rail and guides. There are three pieces that are two and three quarter inches by a quarter inch by an eighth ( 23/4″×¼″×⅛″) of an inch. They are join to the rail and guides. There is also the front brace and the back brace. Both of these pieces are three and a quarter inches by a quarter inch by an eighth (3¼″×¼″×⅛″) of an inch. And there are four pieces which are the hanging brackets, they are two inches long by a quarter inch by an eighth (2″×¼″×⅛″) of an inch.

To begin, take two of the six (6) inch pieces and lay them parallel, two and tree quarter inches apart. Place one of the two and three quarter inch pieces at the end and between the six inch pieces. Square one side and clamp in place and weld the seam. Leave that section clamped in place and square the other six inch piece and camp it in place and weld the seam. Place the other two and three quarter inch piece at the opposite end between the two six inch pieces. Square it and clamp it in place and weld both seams. Take the last two and three quarter inch piece and place it between the other two on three inch center and weld in place. Unclasp the assembly and grind the welds. Re-clamp the assembly and take one of the other six inch pieces and stand it on edge so that the surface of this piece is square against the edge of the assembly and tack this piece in place on the ends only. Take one of the three and a quarter inch pieces and stand it on edge and even with the vertical surface of the previously positioned six inch piece, and weld at the inside vertical corner. Tack the inside seam on the opposite side. Take the last six inch piece stand it on edge with the vertical surface against the edge of the assembly and tack it in place. The end that is boxed in is the back of the trap cap carriage. Now take the last three and a quarter inch piece and place it at the front of the assembly between the vertical surfaces of the two six inch pieces flush with the top edge of the six inch pieces and weld in place.

The carriage hanging brackets which are the four two inch pieces are welded to the outside vertical surface of the six inch pieces. Take one piece stand it on end at the back corner of the carriage square it and clamp it in place and tack weld. The same procedure is done to the other corner. Mark off four inches from the back corner and position one of the other two inch pieces on the four inch mark square it and clamp and tack weld in place. The same procedure is done to the other side. Weld the inside back corners and along the edge of the hanging brackets and the surface of the guides. Set this component to the side.

To begin fabricating the stand there are thirteen pieces of three quarter inch square tubing. Two pieces are thirty two inches by three quarters, two pieces are thirty and a half inches, five pieces are twenty and a half inches, tow pieces are thirteen and an eighth of and inch and, two pieces are eleven and three quarters of an inch. Begin assembly by laying out the two thirty two inch pieces parallel to each other twenty and a half inches apart. Take two of the twenty and a half inch pieces and place one on each end between the two thirty two inch pieces. At one end square the twenty and a half inch piece to the thirty two inch piece and clamp and tack weld in place. On the opposite side, square the thirty two inch piece to the twenty and a half inch piece and clamp and tack weld in place. At the opposite end, square the other twenty and a half inch piece clamp and tack weld both sides. Check the assembly for squareness and weld the four inside corners and the top seams only.

Designate one end of the rectangle as the right end and, from that end mark off sixteen and a half inches from the inside of the twenty and a half inch piece. Take one of the other twenty and a half inch piece and place it to the left side of the mark square it and clamp in place. Tack weld this piece in place and then weld all four corners and the top seams and grind flush the top seam welds. Unclasp the assembly and turn it top side down and take one of the thirteen and an eighth inch piece and stand it on end on one of the left side corners square it and tack weld it in place. Once it is true weld it in place and, repeat this procedure to the opposite side with the other thirteen and an eighth inch piece. Take the two eleven and three quarter inch pieces and from the end, lay out a mark a half inch from end and bore a hole thirteen thirty seconds in diameter on three eighth inch center. This procedure is done to both pieces to accommodate the three eighth inch diameter Axel. At the right end, place the piece hole end up facing the front of the assembly. Square it and tack in place. Check for squareness and weld in place. Repeat this same procedure to the opposite side. From the bottom of the assembly, mark off seven inches on the legs. Take one of the remaining twenty and a half inch pieces and square it on the seven inch mark and tack weld both ends in place. Repeat this same procedure to the opposite end and also to the two thirty and a half inch pieces.

Now, the feet are ready to be attached. They are made from flat stock one and three quarters of and inch by one inch by and eighth of and inch. On the left end of the stand place the feet flush to the outside edge of the leg and centered and weld the seam all the way around. The cylinder is attached to the base with three 1-brackets. The 1-brackets are made from one and a half inch by one and a half inch angle iron. Using the metal cut-off saw cut three pieces of angle iron one inch wide. Now go back to the cylinder and lay out a mark four inches from the bottom of the cylinder around the circumference. Intersect that mark with another mark on the back of the cylinder one hundred and eighty degrees from the center of the primary doors.

Now from that one hundred and eighty degree mark place another mark ninety degrees to the left of it and ninety degrees to the right of it. Place one of the 1-brackets on center at the one hundred and eighth degree mark with the section that is to be welded to the cylinder angled down so that the other end is perpendicular to the cylinder and on the four inch mark; tack and weld in place. Following this same procedure weld the other two 1-brackets to the cylinder on center of the other two previously laid out marks.

Once the brackets are welded in place sit the cylinder in the strand and line up the primary doors opening with the front of the stand. Now raise the cylinder to bring the 1-brackets against the bottom of the tubing and clamp each 1-bracket to the bottom of the square tubing and weld each bracket in place. Cut a piece of expanded metal thirty and a half inches by twenty and a half inches and in one of the corners lay out a circle sixteen and a quarter inches in diameter. Position the circle where the circumference inter-sect the back and the right side edge of the rectangle so that the back right corner of the expanded metal will be cut away. Take the expanded metal and slip it down around the cylinder and position it in the proper fit on the base. Tack weld the front corners and then the back corners and along the perimeter. On the left side of the stand between the front and back corner, lay out a mark fifteen and a half inches from the back corner. This mark is where the front shelf support will sit.

The shelves and supports are made from three quarters of an inch square tubing there are eight pieces; two pieces are twenty nine and an quarter inch, two pieces are fourteen and a quarter inch, tow pieces are fifteen and a half inches and two pieces are sixteen and a half inches. Take one of the twenty nine and a quarter inch pieces and forward of the fifteen and a half inch mark stand the piece on end on the mark. Square it and tack weld in place. The other twenty nine and a quarter inch piece is positioned three quarters of an inch from the corner square it and tack weld in place. Place a mark on the shelf support fourteen and a quarter inches from the top of the stand. Take one of the fourteen and a quarter inch pieces and place the bottom side on the mark; square it and tack weld both sides in place.

Now take one of the sixteen and a half inch pieces and one of the fifteen and a half inch pieces and on one end cut an eight inch radius without altering the total length of either piece. The sixteen and a half inch piece sit on top and flush with the back shelf support. Square it and tack weld in place. The end with the radius cut on it should be flush against the cylinder, tack this end to the cylinder. Repeat the process to the front piece. Now take the fifteen and three quarter inch piece and the fourteen and three quarter inch piece and on one of the ends cut an eight inch radius without altering the total length of the pieces. Place the fifteen and three quarter inch piece on the fourteen and a quarter inch mark that was placed on the twenty nine and a quarter inch shelf support. Square this back piece and tack in place and tack to the cylinder. The fourteen and three quarters inch piece is the front pieces. Square it to the fourteen and a quarter inch mark and track weld in place. Take the last fourteen and a quarter inch piece and place it in position at the top and flush with the front and back horizontal pieces and tack weld in place.

Now go back and weld the joints all the way around. Cut two pieces of expanded metal fourteen and a quarter inches wide by fifteen inches long. Mark off fourteen and a quarter inches on the front side and from that mark lay out an eight inch radius to the fifteen inch length of the back side. With the plasma cutter remove the semi circle and position the piece between the shelf support and against the cylinder and tack weld in place. The same procedure is repeated to the lower shelf. Then go back and weld the entire perimeter of the expanded metal in place. The opening for the steam pan access door is framed with quarter inch by eighth inch flat stock. Two pieces are nine inches long and two pieces are four and a half inches long. Place the nine piece flush to the vertical edge of the opening a quarter inch above and below the horizontal cuts of the opening. Clamp in place and tack weld. This same procedure is repeated on the opposite side. Take one of the four and a half inch pieces and place one end against the edge of the vertical pieces and flush with the horizontal edge of the opening and clamp that end in place, now bend the piece to conform to the radius of the cylinder and clamp the other end in place and tack weld. This procedure is repeated to the other four and a half inch piece then weld the seams at the corners and stitch weld three quarter inch beads every two inches around the perimeter of the opening.

The steam pan access door is made from flat stock one eighth of an inch thick by five inches wide by nine inches long. The piece is bent along the length to an eight inch radius. The door have no trim applied. The handle for the door is made from flat stock one inch long by a quarter inch wide by an eighth inch thick and bent to ninety degrees on a half inch. This piece is then welded to the door angled downward to the right side fo the door two inches from the top and one inch form the paralleled edge of the door. The hinge pins are made from solid round stock one inch long by three sixteenths inches in diameter. The round stock is bent to ninety degrees one quarter of an inch from end. The door is hinged on the left side, take one of the hinge pins position it with the long end on the door one inch from the top and overlapping the exterior of the door by three eighths of an inch and tack weld in place angled downward. Repeat the same procedure to the bottom pin except it is to be angled upward.

After the hinge pins are welded in place position the door over the opening even with the trim and with the web clamp, clamp it in place. The hinge pin couplings are made from flat stock three eights of an inch long by five sixteenths wide bore a three sixteenths inch hole centered in both pieces. Take one of the coupling s and slip it onto the top hinge pin with the three eighth inch section being attached to the cylinder once properly positioned weld it in place. The same procedure is done to the bottom coupling.

Once completed, with a die grinder debar and round off the corners of the couplings and handle. The steam pan and grate support pins are made from solid round stock a quarter inch in diameter by three quarters of an inch long, there are a total of fifteen pins. Five are to be welded in a vertical row at one hundred and eighty degrees from the center of the primary doors opening. The first one is to be welded nine inches from the bottom and the other four are welded on center every eight inches above the nine inch one. The other ten are for the front and, they are to be welded one and a half inches from the vertical edge of the primary doors opening on both sides. As with the back pins they are to be welded one at nine inches from the bottom and on center every eight inches.

Once completed, EVINCE will have approximately one hundred and eighty square inches of cooking surface on the four grates combined. It have a primary door that features a pressure locking handle. It have a steam pan charcoal access door located to the rear and bottom of the cylinder. At the very bottom of the cylinder there is a clean out air intake trap. At the very top of the cylinder there is an exhaust manifold with an exhaust control cap. The cylinder is lines with a special type of glass material that protects the container from the inevitable corrosion that occurs when metal is exposed to prolong periods of heat and moisture.

When this condition begin to take place in a cooking medium where food is exposed directly to the resulting effects of the deterioration of metal there is a potential health risk involved. The lining also increase the longevity of the unit. At the top interior there are four t-hooks for suspending larger section of meat and or cheese. The steam pan is the source of steam and it can be used with a combination of liquids, spices, herbs, vegetables, and fruits. When filled with liquids it also serves as a fire break by preventing the direct heat cooking of the meat.

The steam pan also serves as a grease; trap catching over ninety nine percent of the rendered fat preventing it from dripping down into the charcoals where it world cause grease fire flare ups. The clean out air intake trap facilitate the convenient and easy removal of ash and or charcoals in the event of a to hot a fire. The clean out air intake trap controls the temperature o the fire by controlling the amount of air intake. The handle to open and close the clean out air intake trap cap is conveniently located directly in front of the stand. The steam pan charcoal access door is to be used to replenish the steam pan, charcoals, and wood chips. It is also used as the secondary exhaust manifold. When the primary exhaust control cap is completely shut off the smoke is forced to re-circulate back down into the base of the smoker to exit from the steam pan access door. This method enhance the flavoring by retaining and re-circulating the smoke for longer periods of time. Which also maximize the use of the charcoals and or wood.

To use EVINCE first, open the primary manifold control cap, the primary door, the clean out air intake trap cap and the steam pan access door. To achieve the best results put approximately twenty briquettes in a pile in the center of the smoker. Put a liberal amount of charcoal lighter on the pile and allow to soak for five minutes. After five minutes light the charcoals and allow the pile to burn itself out. Then spread the charcoals evenly in the center of the smoker. Replace the steam pan and fill the pan three quarters full with the intended steaming liquid but, do not over fill the pan. Close the exhaust manifold control cap and the clean out air intake trap cap half way.

Close the steam pan access door all the way. Put your meat into the smoker and close the primary door and from this point you should access the steam pan and charcoals through the access door. Now through the steam pan charcoal access door scatter a handful of pre-soaked wood chips on top of the charcoals and close the door. Periodically check the remaining charcoals and the contents of the steam pan and replenish as needed but, no more than ten briquettes at any one time. EVINCE was designed with the intended purpose of smoke curing meat for extended periods of time and the time period if the smoking process is determined by the user and that time may be as few as eight hours or as many as ninety six or more.

However, even though EVINCE was designed for extended periods of smoke curing meat it also excels as a barbeque steam smoker. Following the same procedures for smoking meat except add more charcoals and rotate the meat from bottom to top and as the meat cooks the juices from the upper levels flavor the meat below it and finally caught in the seasoning steam pan where the process begin again in the form of steam. Unlike the traditional bar-b-que grill where you shouldn't put barbeque sauce on the meat until it's about ready to come off of the grill, with EVINCE the sauce can be put on the meat half way into the cooking process. 

1. What I claim as my invention is the manifested idea of incorporating a glass lining in a steam smoker and or bar-b-que grill.
 2. I claim as my invention the structural configuration of the external and internal components.
 3. I claim as my invention the air intake/clean out trap configuration as a complete assembly.
 4. I claim as my invention the pressure locking handle that is designed to apply pressure in the center of the door. 